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Chapter 03 · Location and mounting

The place decides

The spot on the wall determines success more than any data sheet. How to read sight lines, height, distance and light before you pick a device.

In a bakery on the Swiss plateau a screen hung above the counter, just below the ceiling. Neatly mounted, good content – but nobody looked. People stood a metre and a half in front of it, eyes on the croissants, and would have had to tip their heads right back. Two months later the same unit hung two metres further left, at eye level beside the queue, and suddenly it existed. The technology had not changed, only the place.

Sight lines and walking routes

Before I talk about inches, brightness or playback devices, I walk the route your customer takes: from the door to the counter, from the counter to the till, and out. A screen does not belong where a wall happens to be free, but where people are looking anyway.

Three questions I answer on every site visit:

  • Where do people come from? Through which door, at what pace?
  • Where do they look on the way? At the floor, at the goods, at their phone?
  • Where do they stand still? Queue, reception, lift, cloakroom, changing room.

The still points are the most valuable thing about a location, because people who wait, read. In the gyms on our advertising network, the strongest surfaces are not in the training room but where people queue or get changed. Also check the sight line from a distance: does the passer-by see the screen from the street, or only halfway into the shop?

Mounting height and viewing angle

Mounted too high is the most common mistake we come across, and it has two causes: down below the wall is taken, and up high it looks more impressive. But a screen above head height demands a movement nobody makes when attention lasts two seconds.

Our working figures from practice:

  • Centre of the picture at the eye level of a standing viewer, roughly 1.55 to 1.65 metres above the floor.
  • If the audience is seated – waiting room, lobby, restaurant – the centre drops to about 1.20 metres.
  • Bottom edge in landscape rarely below 1.10 metres, or people and furniture will block the picture.
  • Portrait totem in a passageway: bottom edge at about 0.80 metres.

If a unit has to go higher because of doors or escape routes, tilt it downwards; five to ten degrees is enough and also helps against ceiling reflections. Think about the horizontal viewing angle too: many cheap panels already look washed out and colour-shifted at thirty degrees. If your audience walks past rather than standing in front, that counts for more than any resolution.

Distance and picture size

The question «what size do I need?» is really the question «from what distance should this be read?» What matters is not the diagonal but the letter height on the finished image. As a rule of thumb I calculate: letter height in millimetres equals viewing distance in metres times eight.

Viewing distanceMinimum letter heightSensible diagonal
1 to 2 metresabout 15 mm32 to 43 inches
3 metresabout 25 mm43 to 55 inches
5 metresabout 40 mm55 to 65 inches
8 metresabout 65 mm75 to 86 inches
12 metres and moreabout 100 mm98 inches or an LED wall

The third column applies to a normal layout of headline, short line and image. If you want to show a menu with many items, you need more surface or fewer items per image. Squeezing everything onto a 43-inch screen always ends the same way: the type gets small and nobody reads it. How content stays readable in two seconds is covered in the chapter on design.

The light on site

Light is what gets underestimated most often, because it changes over the day. Anyone measuring on a Tuesday morning under an overcast sky does not see what happens on Friday at four, when the sun comes in low through the glass front.

What I watch for on site:

  • Daylight: how many lux fall on the planned surface? From around 1000 lux an indoor unit has no chance.
  • Backlight: if the window is behind the screen, the viewer sees a silhouette. No amount of candela helps, only a different spot.
  • Path of the sun: morning, midday, evening. An east and a west façade need different devices.
  • Reflections: look at the dark glass surface from the viewer's position. What is reflected – a light fitting, a window, a refrigerated display?
  • Colour temperature: warm light around 2700 kelvin makes cool screens look blue, and tight spots wash a display out.

The most effective countermeasure costs almost nothing: move a light fitting or aim a spot differently. Which brightness class suits which location is covered in the chapter on technology.

Portrait or landscape

Format is usually decided by instinct: portrait supposedly looks more modern, landscape is the normal thing. Neither is an argument. What decides it is the content you want to show over the coming years.

Portrait works when people are walking past and the content stacks up: individual offers, people, products, dates, directions. It works where the wall is narrow – a pillar, a niche, beside the door – and takes vertically filmed video without bars.

Landscape works for moving images, menu boards with several columns, occupancy plans and everything that sits side by side for comparison. In meeting rooms and hotel lobbies it is almost always right, because a laptop gets plugged in there now and then.

Two things matter more than the decision itself. First: stick with it – an installation of three portrait and two landscape screens doubles the design work for ever. Second: a consumer television must not simply be turned on its side. Continuous operation in portrait needs an approved device, otherwise heat builds up inside the housing.

The shop window: the hardest place

The shop window is the most tempting spot and the most demanding. Behind glass the unit sits in a small greenhouse: the sun heats the pane, the air behind it stands still, and an ordinary display eventually switches into thermal protection – usually on the afternoon when the most people are walking past.

What a shop-window position needs:

  • High brightness, otherwise ambient light wins. Indoor brightness is never enough here.
  • An operating temperature that suits the place, and a panel designed not to fade.
  • Ventilation: a few centimetres of clearance from the pane, open at the top and bottom. A closed wooden box is an oven.
  • Solar film or shading if the pane faces south or west.
  • A night-time dimming. It spares the panel, saves power and does not light up half the lane.

Think about the back: from inside, customers would otherwise see a black surface with cables. And clarify early whether the landlord or the municipality has a say on illuminated signage – in old town locations that is the rule.

Outdoors: weather, vandalism, power

Outdoors, different laws apply. An outdoor unit is not an indoor unit with a roof but a construction of its own – which is why it is worth asking whether a shop window from the inside serves the same purpose.

What counts:

  • IP rating: sealed against dust and water, typically IP65 all round. The rating has to apply to the whole housing, not just the front.
  • IK impact rating: in publicly accessible locations it counts for more than any other line on the data sheet, and safety glass in front of the panel is mandatory there.
  • Theft: fixings that need a tool, a lock on the service hatch, no visible cables.
  • Foundation and statics: a free-standing totem needs a foundation that can take wind loads. Façade insulation is not a base.
  • Lightning and surge protection: free-standing installations belong in the building's lightning protection concept.
  • Power supply: anyone who plans the cable run only after ordering digs twice.

Cold is as much an issue as heat: good outdoor units warm themselves up before starting, so the panel does not become sluggish below freezing.

The site visit

A site visit rarely takes more than an hour and saves half days later. We come with a lux meter, tape measure, ladder and camera – and if possible at a busy time of day, not on a quiet Monday morning.

What we record:

  • Lux measurement at the planned surface, at least twice in the day, plus the colour temperature of the lighting.
  • Distances: shortest and typical viewing distance, free wall width, ceiling and door height.
  • Photographs: head-on, from the viewer's angle, from a distance and once of the back of the wall.
  • Power socket: where is the nearest one, on which circuit, is it switched off at night?
  • Network connection: is a cable to the surface possible? If only wifi, measure signal strength at the mounting point, not at reception.
  • Wall construction: brick, concrete, plasterboard, insulation, glass. Where are the load-bearing elements, where do the services run?
  • Escape routes and fire protection: cover nothing – no emergency light, no fire extinguisher, no signage.
  • Heritage protection: in protected locations a permit is required, even for a device behind the window.
  • Lease: who is allowed to drill, and what has to be restored when moving out?

This list answers three things: device, bracket, connection. Fill it in before ordering and you will drill exactly once.

Key pointA screen belongs where people stop – and at the height they are already looking.

Let's talk about your screens.

The book answers many questions. Your location is best looked at together.